The irony (deeper lesson?) isn’t lost on me that as I type this email about having a tough time breathing at high altitude on the Salkantay Trek in Peru during my last group hiking trip in May (join me on my next trip to Patagonia!)…

I’m sitting in my parents dining room in Chicago next to the hum of my mom’s oxygen machine that runs a 50ft cord up to her bedroom so she can breathe as she sleeps.

I expected hiking at altitude to be hard, really hard even, but I didn’t expect it would restrict me from hiking every last mile of the trek, of which I fully expected I would do.

On day one of the Salkantay Trek in Peru we had a relatively short hike, about 6.2 miles and only 700 feet elevation gain.

Starting our trek at 12,000 feet, I felt great. We had acclimated in Cusco at 11,000 feet for the previous 2 days & I felt myself adjusting pretty well to the altitude.

As we neared the last 45 minutes of the hike many of us started getting headaches and even a bit dizzy. Mild altitude symptoms, but totally manageable.

As we approached the final 20-minute stretch, what should have been a quick walk up the last little incline felt almost impossible.

My whole body was numb, I could only take a few steps without needing to stop to regroup. Breathing was hard, but I also just felt so out of it, like I was moonwalking & everything around me was foggy.

My body just didn’t want to move. And my brain just didn’t want to work.

I told a couple people that I was having a tough time and asked if they’d stay with me, walking incredibly slowly and stopping often. I didn’t think I was going to pass out, but I also wasn’t sure that I wouldn’t.

The camp was literally right there but it felt like a mile away.

And while the Salkantay Trek was just one of the many incredible (and otherwise totally positive) experiences from this trip, it was one that offered a lot to reflect on…

Are you planning a Salkantay Trek trip? Read these blog posts:

Packing List: 5-Day Hut-to-Hut Salkantay Trek in Peru
Trip Guide: 5-Day Hut-to-Hut Salkantay Trek in Peru

4 things I’m proud of:

Doing the Salkantay Trek knowing I’d probably have a hard time with altitude.

My husband Nick calls me a hummingbird because I run at a pretty high frequency (ahem: anxious) with a heart rate that jumps into the orange zone upon almost doing almost… anything.

Even though I trained as well as I could for altitude, there’s an inherent hurtle with living at sea level (literally 0ft) and then a few days later hiking at elevations of 12,000 to 15,000 feet.

Odds were not in my favor for it to be easy, but I knew “easy” wasn’t on the itinerary for this experience.

Staying calm when breathing was difficult.

Fun fact: my biggest fear is not being able to breathe.

This usually manifests around choking or downing, buuuuuuut now I can add altitude to that list haha.

Choosing to rest when my ego wanted to push through.

I so badly wanted to hike, even in the rain, up to Humantay Lake once we got to our first camp, but I was in no shape to do that.

It was an optional 3 mile up and back, 1,000 foot elevation gain (and loss) hike to a beautiful glacial lake.

But to be honest, getting in my sleeping bag with some hot coca tea was exactly what I needed.

The next morning the first 3 miles of our hike were an ascent to the Salkantay Pass at 15,190 feet and while I felt so much better in the morning, I knew I couldn’t risk getting to the pass in the same shape I was in when we got to the first camp (with still 6k feet descent and another 10 miles to go to the next camp).

So, I opted to take a horse those 3 miles with about half the group and were dropped off at the top of the pass to hike the rest of the day.

Taking a horse was first of all, hilarious.

And second of all, so incredibly beautiful to be able to literally sit back and enjoy the scenery. When hiking you’re often looking at your feet as not to trip or twist an ankle, so I intentionally made a point to really soak in the views from my horse.

Was it a check to the ego? Absolutely.

But also, how often do you get the chance to ride a horse through the Peruvian Andes??

The women who joined me on this trip.

The Salkantay Trek in Peru wouldn’t be considered easy, or even moderate, by almost anyone.

42 miles, 7k elevation gain, and 11k elevation loss (never underestimate the descent) is a tall order. Even if it were at sea level.

I’m proud of this group of women for acknowledging something they desired, and then taking action to pursue it.

I’m proud of them for stepping outside of their comfort zone and choosing to face a challenge.

I’m proud of them for fully immersing in the experience – being present, being open to connect with new people, being game for when things had to shift and change.

I’m proud of them for honoring what they needed when they needed it by either asking for it, or simply just doing what they personally needed to do in the moment.

I’m proud of them for showing up for themselves, which whether they know it or not, is inspiring to someone they know, quietly watching, to pursue something they desire too.

Last night during dinner my parents were asking about the trip and mom asked me how it felt to breathe at altitude.

I described my experience – the heaviness in my body, the struggle to get a good deep breath, the amount of time it takes to recover from something as simple as talking or walking a few feet.

She nodded, “That’s what it feels like for me too.”

Every experience in the mountains teaches me a different lesson.

Sometimes that lesson is one of overcoming challenge.

One that feels good, checks off the boxes, and is tied up with a bow.

And other times it’s one of experiencing challenge.

One that requires you notice who you become in those moments, how you respond, leaves you with questions, and while left untied, offers opportunity for a different kind of growth, if you’re open to it.

I’m grateful on this trip to have experienced both, but what sits with me now is the latter.

An imperfect experience, that has given me grace.

Next group hiking trip: PATAGONIA, December 2024. We’ll be hiking the iconic 5-day Hut to Hut W-Trek & so much more. Learn more here.

Are you planning to do the Salkantay Trek in Peru? Read these blog posts:

Packing List: 5-Day Hut-to-Hut Salkantay Trek in Peru
Trip Guide: 5-Day Hut-to-Hut Salkantay Trek in Peru

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Photo credits: Dasha Afanaseva